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NINH BINH |
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The dusty provincial capital of NINH BINH , 90km south of Hanoi, has
little to detain you, but the surrounding hills shelter Tam Coc , where
sampans slither through the limestone tunnels of "Ha Long Bay on land",
and dynastic temples from the ancient capital, Hoa Lu . Two radio masts
provide convenient landmarks in town: the taller stands over the post
office in the south, while the shorter signals the northern extremity
2km away up Highway 1 (Tran Hung Dao). Exactly halfway between the two,
Le Hong Phong shoots off east at a major junction, taking traffic to
join the Nam Dinh road. To the east, a dismembered church spire bears
witness to American bombing raids of the late 1960s, while 1km to the
north a picturesque little pagoda nestles at the base of Non Nuoc
Mountain.
Ninh Binh's bus station lies 100m south of the post office, across the
small Lim Bridge and beside a busy crossroads. To find the train station
, head one block north on Le Dai Hanh, turn right opposite the Huong Gia
Hotel and walk 200m east. From either station, the "centre" of town is a
one-kilometre xe om ride away. For advice on booking tours and transport
it's best to ask your hotel or guesthouse. Mr Da, owner of the Thuy Anh,
is particularly knowledgeable about the area. You can exchange cash at
Agribank, immediately south of the Hoa Lu Hotel, and at Vietcombank,
located on the main strip on Tran Hung Dao (they also take travellers'
cheques).
The best place to stay and eat is the Thuy Anh Hotel at 55a Truong Han
Sieu (tel 030/871602; $10-15), which has a panoramic roof terrace
restaurant (open only in summer) and spotless, newly refurbished rooms.
Its owner, Mr Da, is a good source of local tourist information.
Otherwise, there's the small, popular Queen, a mini-hotel just 30m
straight in front of the train station at 21 Hoang Hoa Tham (tel
030/871874; $5-15), or the central Star, 267 Tran Hung Dao (tel
030/871522; $5-15), a clean mini-hotel with en-suite, air-con rooms and
Internet access.
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