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LAO CAI |
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| Follow the Red River Valley northwest from Hanoi and after 300km,
pushing ever deeper into the mountains, you eventually reach the border
town of LAO CAI , of little interest in itself except as the railhead
for Sa Pa and a popular route into China for travellers heading to
Kunming. Most people arrive off the night train from Hanoi at Lao Cai
train station on the east bank of the Red River, just 3km due south of
the Chinese border. Follow the road north from the station towards the
border and after 2km you reach Coc Leu Bridge, spanning the river to
link up with the bulk of Lao Cai town over on the opposite bank.
Immediately across the bridge, turn left for the bus station and market,
or carry straight on along the town's main axis, Hoang Lien. A tourist
bus to Sa Pa ($2) meets the Hanoi train. Local buses only run this route
in the early morning and at 3pm, so it's easier to take a jeep ($4-5 per
person) or a xe om ($5) all the way from the train or bus station. The
Tulico tourist company (tel 020/832788) has an office located inside the
train station complex which can arrange transport as well as trips to Sa
Pa and Bac Ha. Nearly all Lao Cai's hotels are on the road up to the
border, Nguyen Hue. Best of the lot is Song Hong Guesthouse (tel
020/830004; $5-10), near the border gate, or try the Hanoi (tel
020/832486; under $5), 100m or so back towards town. The road outside
the train station is lined with food stalls, of which the Thai Du is the
best |
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