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GETTING AROUND |
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Vietnam's main thoroughfare is Highway 1, which runs from Hanoi to
Ho Chi Minh, passing through Hué, Da Nang and Nha Trang en route, and is
ghosted by the country's main rail line. Though things have been
improving, public transport remains fairly shambolic: bus timetables are
for the most part redundant, and many tourists opt for internal flights
or private tours in order to escape the clapped-out buses and snail-slow
trains. On buses, never fall asleep with your bag by your side, and
never leave belongings unattended. On trains, ensure your money-belt is
safely tucked under your clothes before going to sleep and that your
luggage is safely stowed (preferably padlocked to an immovable object).
Planes
Vietnam Airlines operates a reasonably cheap, efficient and
comprehensive network of domestic flights and has offices in all towns
with an airport. The two-hour journey between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City
($135), for instance, compares favourably with the thirty or more hours
you might spend on the train. Book as far ahead as you can.
Buses and minibuses
Vietnam's national bus network offers daily services between all major
towns, but buses can be unbearably cramped, seats are hard, breakdowns
frequent, and progress slow. All towns have a bus station, and larger
places have both a local and a long-distance station. Most buses depart
early, from 5am through to mid-morning, waiting only as long as it takes
to get enough passengers. For longer journeys, tickets are best bought a
day in advance, since many routes are heavily over-subscribed. Prices at
certain tourist hotspots can be over the odds; always try to ascertain
the correct price before boarding.
Privately owned minibuses compete with public buses on most routes; they
sometimes share the local bus station, or simply congregate in the
centre of a town. Though generally even more cramped than ordinary
buses, they do at least run throughout the day.
Special "open-tour" buses shuttling beween major tourist destinations
are becoming an increasingly popular way for foreigners to travel in
Vietnam. Competition is fierce, so prices are coming down, though they
are still way more expensive than local buses. The best thing to do is
buy a one-way through ticket, for example from Ho Chi Minh to Hué ($24)
or Hanoi ($38), which enables you to stop off at specified destinations
en route: heading north, the main stops are Da Lat, Nha Trang, Hoi An,
Da Nang, Hué and Vinh. You can either make firm bookings at the outset
or opt for an open-dated ticket. Tickets and onward reservations are
available from agents in each town.
Trains
Though Vietnamese trains are slow, travelling on them can be a pleasant
experience if you splash out on a soft-class berth or seat, but this can
work out quite expensive.
The country's main line shadows Highway 1 on its way from Ho Chi Minh
City to Hanoi (1726km), passing through Nha Trang, Da Nang and Hué en
route. From Hanoi , one branch goes northwest to Lao Cai and the border
crossing into China 's Yunnan Province; another runs north to Dong Dang,
and is the route taken by the two weekly trains from Hanoi to Beijing ;
and the third goes to Haiphong .
The most popular lines with tourists are the shuttle from Da Nang to Hué,
and the overnighters from Hué to Hanoi and from Hanoi up to Lao Cai, for
Sa Pa. Four "Reunification Express" trains depart each day from Hanoi to
Ho Chi Minh and vice versa. They are labelled S1 to S8; odd-numbered
trains travel south, even ones north, hence the S2 (32hr), S4 (37hr) and
S6 and S8 (41hr) depart daily from Ho Chi Minh City, and the S1 to S7 (same
times) make the trip in the opposite direction.
When it comes to choosing which class to travel in, it's essential to
aim high. Hard seats are bearable for short journeys, but even soft
seats are grim for long hauls. On overnight journeys, you should go for
a berth : cramped hard-berth compartments have six bunks (cheapest at
the top) and soft-berths have only four bunks; two-bed super-berth
compartments are only available on the S1 and S2 services and are often
booked well in advance. Simple meals are included in the price of the
ticket on overnight journeys.
Booking ahead is essential; you may need your passport when you buy a
ticket. Fares vary according to the class and the speed of the train:
the following is a guide to fares on the slowest service from Ho Chi
Minh to Hanoi (S6). From Ho Chi Minh to Nha Trang costs around $10 for a
hard seat, $23 for a soft berth; from HCMC to Da Nang, the same classes
cost $23 and $45; from HCMC to Hanoi they cost $42 and $83.
Vehicle rental
Although self-drive isn't yet possible in Vietnam, it's easy to hire a
car, jeep or minibus with driver from tour agencies and tourist offices
($25-60 per day). Check who pays for the driver's accommodation and
meals, fuel, tolls, parking fees and repairs and what happens in the
case of a major breakdown. Sign a contract showing this and the agreed
itinerary, and arrange to pay half before and the balance at the end.
Bicycles are available from hotels and tour agencies in most towns for
about $1 a day. Motorbike ($6-10 per day) and/or moped ($5-7) rental is
possible in most major towns, but the appalling road discipline of most
Vietnamese drivers means that the risk of an accident is very real.
Check everything carefully, especially brakes, lights and horn. Wearing
a helmet is now a legal requirement at speeds over 40km/hr; they can be
bought in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh for $20-40. Also check the small print
on your insurance policy, and consider taking out local accident
insurance anyway. The biggest local insurer is Bao Viet, with offices in
Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi; their policies cost $10-12 for the basic
three-month cover and are easy to obtain. Repair shops are fairly
ubiquitous - look for a Honda sign or ask for sua chua xe may (motorbike
repairs) - but you should still carry at least a puncture-repair kit,
pump and spare spark plug. Fuel ( xang) is less than $0.40 per litre and
widely available. Always leave your bike in a parking compound ( gui xe)
or pay someone to keep an eye on it.
The theory is that you drive on the right , though in practice motorists
and cyclists swerve and dodge wherever they want, using no signals and
their horn as a surrogate brake. Right of way invariably goes to the
biggest vehicle on the road; note that overtaking vehicles assume you'll
pull over onto the hard shoulder to avoid them. Its best to avoid
driving after dark, since many vehicles don't use headlights. If you are
involved in an accident and it was deemed to be your fault, the
penalties can involve fairly major fines.
Local transport
Taxis are becoming increasingly common in big cities, and there are also
some city bus services. Elsewhere you'll have to rely upon a host of two-
and three-wheeled vehicles. Cheap, ubiquitous and fun, cyclos - three-wheeled
bicycle rickshaws - can carry one person, or two at a push, and cost
8000-10,000d for a five- or ten-minute hop. Secure a price before
setting off, ensuring you know which currency you are dealing in (five
fingers could mean 5000d or $5), and whether you're negotiating for one
passenger or two.
The motorized version of the cyclo, found in the south, is known as the
cyclo mai . In the Mekong Delta, the xe dap loi is also a variation on
the cyclo theme, and the motorized version is known as a Honda loi .
Honda oms or motorbike taxis, known in the north as a xe oms , are
becoming more common in the main cities; prices are a shade cheaper than
a cyclo.
Xe lams (also known as Lambros ) are three-wheeled, motorized buggies
whose drivers squeeze in more passengers than you'd believe possible.
These act as a local bus service outside Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, and rows
of them are usually found either at the local bus station, or outside
the local market. A typical xe lam ride of a few kilometres costs
3000-4000d.
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